Our Thinking

Design that connects us

Building a more inclusive and sustainable fashion industry for everyone

By: Lisa Baker, Natasha Davies, Mel Barber, Divya Charlie | Tags: Accessibility & Inclusive Design

The fashion industry faces growing pressure to make clothing that is both inclusive and sustainable. Our team collaboratively discuss and address some of the key advancements from retailers, and how these adaptive ranges and sustainable practices offer blueprints for transforming fashion into a responsive ecosystem.

We have seen the huge success of Primark’s new adaptive clothing range, following last year’s launch of adaptive women’s underwear. This is a significant accomplishment by a high street business in making fashion accessible and affordable for disabled people. The 49-piece womenswear and menswear capsule collection was developed in collaboration with disabled people and features innovative and practical designs including magnetic zippers and snap fastenings for people with limited dexterity, waist loops that help to pull up trousers and hidden openings for tube, stoma or catheter access. There are also items available for both seated and standing people, offering equal access to pieces in the collection.

At Naidex 2025, Primark stated that this collection is only just the beginning, and the work of the retailer exemplifies how thoughtful design can meet diverse requirements without compromising on style.

This image is a graphic from Primark Adaptive , showcasing accessible design features integrated into their clothing range. The image has a purple background with simple white icons and accompanying labels to illustrate various adaptive clothing elements. Here's a description of each feature shown:

Extra-large pocket for devices – A larger-than-standard pocket designed to hold medical or personal devices securely and comfortably.

Inner waistband pulls – Loops or pulls inside the waistband to assist with independent dressing, especially helpful for people with limited dexterity or mobility.

Stoma access – Discreet openings or design features that allow easy access to a stoma without needing to undress.

Magnetic Zip – Zippers that use magnets for easier fastening and unfastening, designed for users with limited hand function or coordination.

Accessible Openings – Clothing with easier access points (like Velcro or snap closures) for dressing and undressing, particularly useful for people with physical impairments.

Pockets with tube access – Specially designed pockets that accommodate medical tubing (e.g., feeding tubes or catheters) while keeping them secure and discreet.

Belt attached at side seam – A fixed-position belt to make it easier to fasten and adjust clothing without complex movements.

Tube access – Built-in features or openings that allow for comfortable and discreet management of medical tubes, reducing the need to modify clothing.
A graphic from Primark Adaptive, showcasing accessible design features integrated into their clothing range.

The sustainability paradox

Despite this, Primark’s journey into adaptive fashion is not without its contradictions. As a fast fashion retailer, the brand has long faced scrutiny over its supply chain transparency, environmental impact, and labour practices. Although initiatives like the “Sustainable Cotton Programme” and a pledge to halve carbon emissions by 2030 highlight attempts at aiming to improve sustainability, persistent concerns about low wages and poor working conditions suggest that the fast fashion model is hard to reconcile with ethical production.

Brands such as Patagonia set the benchmark for sustainability and ethical supply chains. Patagonia’s commitment to transparent sourcing, fair labour practices, durable materials, and repair and reuse initiatives makes it an exemplar of what responsible fashion can achieve. However, its higher price points mean that its offerings remain out of reach for many consumers, highlighting an accessibility gap.


Comparing approaches

Here’s how Primark and Patagonia compare in terms of adaptive clothing, sustainability, and ethical practices:

Aspect

Primark

Patagonia

Business Model

Fast fashion, low-cost, high-volume production

Premium outdoor apparel, durable and repairable

Sustainability Approach

Focus on affordability while integrating sustainability efforts

Ethical sourcing, recycled materials, repair and reuse programs

Adaptive Fashion

Recent launch of an adaptive range (e.g. magnetic zips, stoma access, tube access)

No dedicated adaptive range

Material Sourcing

By 2027, Primark wants all the cotton in their clothing to be organic, recycled or sourced from the Primark Cotton Project (formerly the Primark Sustainable Cotton Programme).

Uses organic cotton, recycled nylon and other materials, and responsibly sourced wool - see full list

Labour & Ethics

Supply chain transparency improving, but challenges remain in fair wages and working conditions

Fair Trade Certified factories, living wages, and strong worker rights policies

Carbon Footprint

Goal to halve emissions by 2030, investment in greener shipping

Already a carbon-neutral business, invests in regenerative agriculture

Affordability & Accessibility

Affordable for a wider consumer base

Higher price point, making it less accessible to budget-conscious shoppers

Longevity & Durability

Fashion-forward designs, but durability is a concern

Products designed to last decades, with repair & resale options


This comparison reveals the core challenge: must we choose between making clothes accessible and ensuring they're produced ethically and sustainably?

Fortunately, some brands prove this isn't an either-or choice. Dry Robe, while perhaps more functional than traditional fashion, demonstrates how companies can integrate both values from the ground up. Their product development process actively involved disabled people (like co-author Natasha Davies), ensuring genuine inclusivity while maintaining their commitment to sustainable practices. Similarly, Lucy and Yak has partnered with Unhidden to develop clothing that works for both seated and standing users, all while upholding responsible and sustainable production standards. These collaborations show that inclusive design and environmental responsibility need not be mutually exclusive when brands prioritise authentic engagement with disabled communities alongside their sustainability commitments.

This comparison reveals the core challenge: must we choose between making clothes accessible and ensuring they're produced ethically and sustainably?

Reimagining fashion as an ecosystem

Primark's adaptive range and Patagonia's sustainable practices offer blueprints for transforming fashion into a responsive ecosystem. While Primark focuses on accessibility through adaptive design, Patagonia focuses on environmental stewardship through its circular business model, repairing, reusing, and recycling garments to extend their lifecycle and minimise waste.

Adaptive fashion shows us how to build our own approach to accessibility, inclusivity, and sustainability. Rather than seeking one perfect solution, we can recognise that multiple frameworks can work simultaneously, each addressing different needs. The goal isn't following existing standards, but expanding possibilities. This requires building confidence to innovate continuously, not just creating one successful collection, but developing the determination to keep learning and improving how we serve people through inclusive design.

How might we transform the traditional linear approach of fashion design into a more interconnected, empathetic ecosystem?

When brands like Primark launch their adaptive range, the conversation should not be stopping at the clothing itself, but designing the whole experience. Everyone should experience the same excitement of a complete shopping and outfit curation experience. Both in physical stores and digital platforms.

Key questions emerge:

  • Do adaptive collections receive the same styling support as regular lines?
  • Can customers see complete outfits instead of isolated pieces?
  • Are we providing consistent diverse representation across all marketing channels, not just during launches?

How might we transform the traditional linear approach of fashion design into a more interconnected, empathetic ecosystem?

The cultural shift

Fashion has never been about just clothing. It's about identity, expression, and belonging through style and mindful choices. By supporting multiple design approaches, we're not just making clothes accessible; we're challenging cultural assumptions about bodies, ability, style, and choice.

Rather than providing ready-made answers (since every brand operates differently), we aim to inspire holistic thinking and help communicate that vision.

Questions to consider:

  • How can we give all customers equally good shopping experiences, no matter their needs?
  • How might your company see design as an ongoing, collaborative process?
  • What if we combined Patagonia's environmental focus with the accessibility approach of brands like Primark's adaptive range?


At Mima, we don't believe accessibility and sustainability have to compete with each other. From our perspective in accessibility, inclusive design, and experience design, we see this tension as an opportunity for innovation. The principles we apply in other sectors suggest there are untapped possibilities for fashion brands willing to think differently about these challenges.

Behind the scenes reading:

  1. Pullin, G. (2009). "Design Meets Disability". MIT Press.
  2. Sanders, E. B. N., & Stappers, P. J. (2008). "Co-creation and the new landscapes of design". CoDesign Journal.
  3. Norman, D. A. (2013). "The Design of Everyday Things". Basic Books.
  4. Hamraie, A. (2017). "Building Access: Universal Design and the Politics of Disability". University of Minnesota Press.
  5. Patagonia Annual Benefit Corporation Report. Fiscal Years 2023-2024
  6. Primark Sustainability and Ethics Progress Report 2023-2024

Written by:

Photo of Lisa Baker

Lisa Baker
Head of Experience Design & Sustainability

Lisa is a Chartered Ergonomist with 15 years of experience across various industries, including healthcare, transport, culture and heritage. Lisa specialises in bridging human factors and service design to create innovative and sustainable services and experiences, grounded in evidence.

Photo of Natasha Davies

Natasha Davies
Senior Access Consultant

Natasha is an NRAC accredited Access Consultant. She has worked on a broad range of accessibility projects for organisations based in the UK and internationally, helping clients to implement inclusive design solutions. Her previous project experience includes working with historic buildings, art galleries, office spaces, sports centres and mixed-use development schemes.


Photo of Mel Barber

Mel Barber
Accessibility Consultant

Mel delivers technical and holistic design solutions within the built environment for clients in the UK and internationally. She has carried out design appraisals of internal and external environments, most notably for The Factory International, Manchester, The King Salman Park, Saudi Arabia and The National Portrait Gallery, London. Mel provides comprehensive and realistic accessibility recommendations, balancing client aspirations with user experience, tailoring to the project, and developed collaboratively to enhance creative outcomes through inclusive thinking.

Photo of Divya Charlie

Divya Charlie
Service Designer

Divya Elizabeth Charlie is a creative service designer and research professional with an MA in Service Design and an early background of crafting AI digital products in e-commerce.
Divya is interested in and practices a purposeful approach to problem-solving across diverse sectors, driven by a commitment to diversity, social responsibility, and value-driven innovation that contribute to solutions that foster well-being. She believes that the best solutions emerge through engagement with the people they serve, and thrives in collaborative settings, values co-creation and a shared vision, with a focus on practical, feasible solutions that address challenges from multiple perspectives.